Food & Entertaining
Special of the Day: Michael Smith's
Michael Smith's, a new restaurant at 19th and Main, combines creative ingredients and a bright, welcoming space to create a memorable meal
BY
Andrea Darr
PHOTOGRAPHY
Matt Kocourek

I must admit that I had never been to 40 Sardines, at least not for food. Wine, yes. So I wasn’t sure what to expect when my husband and I visited its co-founder’s new restaurant, Michael Smith’s.

Located in the former Zin restaurant space, at the northeast corner of 19th and Main, it’s now a much brighter, welcoming space, with linen curtains and tablecloths and comfy brown leather seating (oddly, the same chairs I nearly bought for my own dining room). It still has a slight urban edge, with metal screens on the bar and wine shelves that act as room dividers from the entry.

We visited the week it opened, on a Tuesday, along with a steady rush. We sat next to a former entrance, which seemed to confuse people coming in, as they kept walking up to it rather than to the actual entrance, which used to lead to the Blue Gallery. I trust some signage will be hung soon, if it hasn’t already been done.

The initial menu featured items such as lamb rack, braised crispy pork and sturgeon from local farms. It was short but well planned. The wine list, also thoughtful, was five times longer. Michael called it “well balanced, highly drinkable and affordable” right before opening. My husband and I agreed, although we hoped that its presentation on  office paper in a marketing binder was only a temporary solution.

We had no complaints about the food. Ingredients were creatively combined and memorable. My favorite was the sea scallop ($14) with eggplant ravioli, fava beans, chorizo and pine nuts. My husband enjoyed the Meatball Threesome ($11), which included a variety with red sauce, puff pastry and spinach. And those were just the appetizers.

Our main entrees included a sautéed striped bass with shrimp croquette, mushrooms and romesco ($24) and a rack of lamb with green beans and olive oil potatoes surrounded by pistachio pesto ($27). Whereas the bass was fresh and lightly flavored, the lamb was a standout because of its robust flavors. I especially liked its presentation — shanks swirled high like a bird’s nest atop a moat of sauce.

For dessert, we had to try one original to the chef and one classic. The chocolate torte ($7) was rich and delicious, like we expected, with coffee-soaked cake, chocolate custard and vanilla crème fraiche. The Peach Three Ways ($7) was definitely unique, being served fresh, as cobbler and as ice cream.

We concluded that Michael Smith’s was off to a great start and on its way to earning awards of excellence.


Michael Smith’s
1900 Main St., Kansas City, Mo.
816.842.2202
michaelsmithkc.com