Bristol’s new vibe is urban and modern, but it is founded on a solid reputation.
Food & Entertaining
Surf on KC's New Turf
The Bristol catches a big wave with a prime location in the heart of downtown’s newfound action.
BY
Andrea Darr
PHOTOGRAPHY
Matt Kocourek

After closing down its Country Club Plaza location almost 15 years ago, it was time for Bristol Seafood Grill to reopen in one of Kansas City’s most happening places: downtown. Yes, the urban core is back in action, and Bristol is right in the middle of it as one of Kansas City’s best places to see and be seen. Not that the Bristol at Town Center Plaza had suffered a downturn in business at all, but the locally owned chain found a new opportunity in the Power & Light District.

“This area of Kansas City is undergoing a renaissance, and the Power & Light District is giving it that jolt,” says Louis Ambrose, executive vice president of Houlihan’s, which owns Bristol. “We were waiting for the right time to open another location, so when [the developer] Cordish came to us, we were ready to sign up.”

So far, the move has paid off, receiving a “favorable response” from new customers and those long-familiar with Bristol. Lunchtime business thrives with commuters and conventioneers. Weekend dinner slots fill so fast that wait lists sometimes start at 5 p.m. Events at Sprint Center and favorite traditions like First Fridays keep the tables turning. Once the Kauffman Center for the Performing Arts opens its doors, dressed-up patrons will be lengthening the reservation list at this high-class restaurant.

“We’re positioned to do well,” Louis says. “Our biggest challenge is parking. But we have valet parking for $6, which is very reasonable.”

While the atmosphere is one of fine dining, Bristol still caters to a crowd coming in off the streets. In fact, my first experience there was during the Big 12 Basketball Tournament in March, when downtown was nearly unrecognizable as being in Kansas City because of the new scenery and actual human bodies occupying the space. Fresh off a Jayhawk win, my husband and I shared a meal with friends and watched highlights on the bar’s wall-hung TVs. The crab cakes ($12.50, starter; $26.95, entree) turned out to be a crowd favorite, with 95-percent lump crab meat. “There’s just enough filler to hold it together,” says general manager Brian Barnes. We also dove into the chipotle grilled shrimp enchiladas ($19.50) served in sweet corn jalapeno crepes and popping with colorful sauces that tasted as bold as they looked. We finished off sweet victory with a super-decadent dessert: a slice of thick chocolate cake that not even four of us forking at it could finish.

A few weeks later, Michael and I returned for a more intimate dining experience, enjoying the darkened interiors and marveling at the glass wine vaults that make a presence in the main dining area. “This location is open and modern, with lighter textures than the darker wood and wrought iron of the Leawood location,” Louis says.

There are also two private dining alcoves for banquets of 12 to 45 people. In June, Bristol will install folding Nana doors on order from overseas to replace the current makeshift ones. The doors will offer more privacy or can be opened up to integrate with the rest of the dining room. And, as the restaurant is so near to one of the country’s most prolific art centers, Bristol’s walls feature works by local and national artists.

The differences in looks aside, the menu is the same, offering fish flown in from both coasts daily, so it’s never frozen. “We’ve spent a lot of time perfecting that system,” Brian says. The service staff seemed an orderly machine also, quick to bring warm biscuits fresh off the cookie sheet or top off a glass of water.

A good indicator of freshness can be found in oysters, whose signs of decline are easy to taste. Bristol’s menu featured four types from the east and west coasts for $1.75 to $2.50 each. They go down smooth. The tuna tartar ($10.95) was just as fresh but much spicier with its wasabi vinaigrette. A bowl of light and chunky New England clam chowder ($6.50) soothed our tongues afterward.

We chose entrees from a selection of four seasonal dishes that executive chef Pat Clearly creates. The seared Chilean seabass ($28.50) is one of the most popular menu items and came so highly recommended that its beige appearance puzzled me momentarily. But the rather plain-looking dish was deceiving. The seabass flaked right off the top of a creamy bed of potato sage gratin, a culinary success if I ever tasted one. Michael ordered lightly seared scallops atop lemon risotto ($25.50) with a basil olive oil and balsamic reduction drizzled about for color and flair. For a lighter dessert this time, we shared the almond tuile cannoli ($7.50) filled with Grand Marnier chocolate mousse and resting on a fresh berry compote — a sensible end to a satisfying meal.

Bristol was smart to lock down a fine dining venue in this fast-growing area of town. The many bars and grills popping up around it automatically separate it as someplace special.

816.448.6007
www.bristolseafoodgrill.com