A handful of vintners are now thinking outside the bottle.
Wine
Have Wine, Will Travel
Practical and delicious, boxed wine reappears new and improved.
BY
Ryan Sciara
PHOTOGRAPHY
Alistair Tutton

People have been telling us for years to think outside the box. Well, I’m here telling you it’s OK to think inside the box. Is this the apocalypse or just a sign of the times: The fastest-growing sector of the American wine market, boxed wine is starting to shake off its stigma as the alternative to traditional wine bottles. Wines that actually taste good now can be found in environmentally friendly and smartly designed packaging without making any sacrifices to quality.

The latest “bag in a box” wines, so-called because of the wine-filled bladder that comes inside a box, have come a long way. This new breed comes from recognizable and respected producers, made with premium grape varieties and vintage-dated. They are not the sweet mystery wines, with natural grape flavors added, that Americans are used to seeing in a box.

In fact, they aren’t even calling them box wines anymore. The preferred name is “cask” wines or “alternative packaging.” It’s a phenomenon that actually makes a lot of sense: A large volume of wine is cheaper to buy, more portable to carry around and can be dispensed as needed without the oxidation of an opened bottle. Unlike bottle stoppers that don’t do much to stop oxidation, the spigot design prevents air from contacting wine until it’s poured, keeping it fresh for almost a month. The portability aspect makes all of these wines perfect for picnics, pool parties, float trips and tailgating.

Along the same lines as the “new school” boxes are the new retro-looking one-liter jugs that started to surface a couple of years ago. The leader of the  pack here has been Three Thieves, which was the first to take really good-tasting California varietals like zinfandel, pinot noir and un-oaked chardonnay and put them in a jug (handle and all). It took a while to catch on, but once it did, the wines were flying off the shelves. Three Thieves’ newest package is the    individual-sized tetra pak or juice box they call “Bandit.”

All of these new “alternative packages” are cute, clever and genius marketing at its best. But as they say, the truth is in the pudding. I have tasted most of the boxes and jugs on the market; here are the ones that are worth tracking down:

Three Thieves (1-liter tetra pak, $10)  The zin is what you would expect, with bright and jammy flavors of raspberry and cherry fruit with a soft hint of pepper spice. The cabernet is equally as delicious with a medium-bodied palate of black plum, blackberry and cherry flavors.  The un-oaked chard is pure and juicy with hints of peach, pear, apple and citrus. Also look for the pinot grigio in the juice box — it’s light, fresh, simple and chuggable.

Martin Ray “Red” (1-liter jugs, $13)  A blend of six varietals, mostly Tempranillo, Syrah and cabernet sauvignon, burst with blueberry, vanilla and cherry flavors followed by creamy oak notes. It  is on the higher end of this category but definitely worth the extra couple bucks.

La Vielle Ferme (3-liter box, $27)  This workhorse producer in France is responsible for exposing many to French wines. This is the first year to be in the box. It’s all tank-fermented, rather than in barrel, which accentuates the juiciness of the wine. Think about bright, right and juicy, red-ripe fruits with a snap of licorice and dried herbs.

Black Box (3-liter box, $20)  Its cabernet sauvignon has grapes that come from one of my favorite regions, Paso Robles in California. The wine is highlighted by black fruits, cedar and minty, spicy notes on the finish.

Hardy’s (3-liter box, $18)  A killer little blend of Shiraz and Grenache comes from Australia (the innovators in this category). The wine sports ripe strawberry, raspberry and cherry flavors with softer notes of white pepper spice.

French Rabbit (1-liter tetra pak, $10)  Pinot noir is soft and fruity with classic pinot aromas and flavors of strawberry, cherry and subtle earth. The chardonnay is on the tropical side with peach, pineapple, citrus and honey flavors.


Ryan Sciara is co-founder and managing partner of Cellar Rat Wine Merchants.